wave diffraction. Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? Reflection occurs when a water wave bounces off of a hard surface, such as a seawall or a seacliff, changing the direction of the wave. Exploring Our Fluid Earth, a product of the Curriculum Research & Development Group (CRDG), College of Education. Wave refraction and diffraction cause converging wave fronts on headlands and diverging wave fronts in bays. a. is a function of the wind direction. Winter Beaches: a.are narrower than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an ________. the waves are in extremely shallow water; in fact, it controls the wave speed if the depth of the bottom is less than about one twentieth of the wave length, so as the waves approach shore, they increase in height, they slow down, and they get closer together, and eventually the wave becomes unstable as the orbits interfered with at Why are headlands more susceptible to erosion than bays? Water waves are refracted as they move from deep water to shallow water. -The wavelength produced when two or more waves interact. Ions from atmospheric and volcanic gases. Will you still be able to buy Godiva chocolate? wave, generated by a closed TRM, which con-verges to its source, is always followed by a spatially diverging wave due to energy flux conservation. b.rise in sea level due to a large weight of glacier on a continental mass. it is not available on demand, and there currently is no viable way to store the energy, Chp 4: Administrative Regulations & Rulings, Chp 3: Constitution & Legislative Sources, Lecture 19 - Spinal Cord, Reflexes and the Br. 5.10). The time between two successive waves is called the ________. A standing wave is caused by wave reflection. Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. How might global warming exacerbate coastal hazards? -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs e.The gravitational attraction among the oceans, mountains, and the moon. Waves are required in order to have surf. The first waves formed by the wind on a previously flat water surface, The area offshore within which waves are breaking is called the. Beaches, headlands, and spits were all made by WAVES which are caused by wind. Why are headlands more susceptible to erosion than bays? 51 Waves converge on headlands due to a constructive interference b destructive | Course Hero 51. University of Hawaii, 2011. Coastal winds can cause upwelling or downwelling due to which of the following? Alternating layers of hard and soft rock allow the sea to erode the soft rock faster, forming a bay but leaving hard rock sticking out, known as a headland. are formed when electrons are shared by atoms. Fig. Discordant coastline occurs where bands of differing rock type run perpendicular to the coast. Locations with wind that typically blows offshore or side-shore are usually preferable to on-shore winds. Rip currents are narrow, river-like currents that flow perpendicular to the coast, heading out to sea (Fig. B) wave reflection. What landforms are formed inland by erosion? The map below shows some popular surf spots. 5.2). b. epiglottis. Coastal waters support about _____________ percent of the total mass of life in the oceans. 5.9 A). What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? Anoxic events (low dissolved oxygen levels) in Chesapeake Bay are mainly caused by: b.high nutrient levels associated with human activities. Where in an atom are neutrons, protons, and electrons located? about half way between high and low tides. Waves converge on headlands due to __________. Poop from animals that consumed shelled organisms. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Wave height increases. the seafloor has an trough located just offshore andparallel to the beach offshore sand bars block some of the wave energy a depression or shallow channel runs offshore from the beach there are headlands along the coast the first part of each wave crest starts to break The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to: How does water move as waves pass? a. The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Definition. E. sea or sea area. Hard engineering. What is the crest of a wave? -When two waves that have long wavelength interfere. Considering that Earth is closest to the Sun during the northern hemispheres winter, which statement must be true? Unlike plunging waves, spilling waves break slowly over considerable distances. 5.8). If the process of speciation appears to occur relatively rapidly, why don't we see new species evolving all the time? The waves touch bottom. Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces: A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche. Waves are the result of disturbance of the water surface; waves themselves represent a restoring force to calm the surface. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. This document may be freely reproduced and distributed for non-profit educational purposes. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave School Acadia University; Course Title GEOL 1003; Type. (B) A sign at Haena Beach Park, Kauai, HawaiI, warns swimmers that rip currents can sweep swimmers out to sea. Deep ocean circulation is driven primarily by __________. In general, bays will have more sedimentation, because they have less wave energy, and headlands will have more erosion, due to the higher amount of wave energy reaching them. tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a ____. A disadvantage shared by wave, solar and wind energy is that ___________________________. -The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. Surface waters are pushed away from land and replaced by nutrient-rich deep water through ____. The low parts of the waves are called ____. 17. Fig. They crystallize (precipitate) from dissolved material in seawater. Cities were built along the coast and waterways because people rely on the ocean to feed themselves and transport goods. (A) A warning sign explains rip current dangers and how to avoid them. Because the focal spot results from the interference of these two waves, the time-reversed field can always be expressed (for a monochromatic wave) as the imaginary part of the Green's function (22). a. vast number of dinosaur fossil bones. d.high nutrient levels associated with tidally mixed ocean water. Rip currents often flow off the beach where __________. 24. E) wave diffraction. Manganese nodules Spilling waves advance to shore with a line of foam tumbling steadily down the front of the wave face. The movement of sea water at a pynocline creates ____ waves. (B) Wave diffraction and reflection in Koieie Loko Ia fishpond. 47. forms when electrons are transferred from one atom to another. For example, in bays, waves diverge due to refraction, reducing the relative amount of energy compared to a straight coastline. What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength? In general, if the bottom is very sloped, the resulting wave will be spilling. Required fields are marked *. Sediments may form from the remains of living organisms falling into the ocean floor. Waves converge on headlands due to: a. constructive interference. What happened to the Screen Junkies Show? B) plunging breakers. How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion? The height of a wave depends upon ________. By the time the wave reached the "6 hours" line west of Hawai'i, the wave moved slower in some places than in others. Fig. ocean Global warming will likely be accompanied by sea level rise. The strength and speed of a rip current dissipates as it heads out to sea, where the channel becomes wider or shallower. -Wave period is the inverse of wave amplitude. What is the most efficient electric heating system UK? wave refraction . A tidal current can produce a rapidly spinning body of water called a vortex or ________. Waves at the ocean surface are called orbital or interface waves. 5.3). -the highest part of the wave 5.4. c.The gravitational attraction just between the Earth and Sun. -the highest part of the wave -Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. The time between two successive waves is called the. What is the wave base? A number of stages are involved: All rocks have lines of weakness; the sea and its waves use hydraulic action, abrasion and solution to erode along any lines of weakness. 52. - Wave speed is equal to wavelength divided by period. What physical factors affect the magnitude of a gravitational force? 52. What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? Ions from chemical weathering of the crust As waves approach the coast, they refract in shapes that mirror the coastline. Over 100 people die each year in the U.S. in rip currents and they account for over 80% of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards. Wave refraction. surf swells spilling breakers HS-ESS2-5 Plan and conduct an investigation of the properties of water and its effects on Earth materials and surface processes. A tsunami may result from: Tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a: Deep water currents move ___ volumes of water and are much ____ than surface currents. Most ocean waves form as a result of ________. Which of the following is not a source of deep water in the ocean? D. surging breaker Using your knowledge of breaking waves and wave properties, investigate why certain surf breaks are good for surfing. tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wavelength. As waves slow down, they get closer together; their wave period shortens. In Figure 5.7, L1 is the wavelength of the incoming waves and L2 is the wavelength of the refracted waves. Image courtesy of Cecilia and Randy Lascody, from National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). The El Nio Southern Oscillation can best be described as ____. Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells. How do I put my PS5 controller in pairing mode? Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. -When two waves that are in-phase interfere. Term. The larger the wavelength and the smaller the barrier opening, the greater the waves will appear to bend around the barrier. Anatomy of a rip current, showing how currents parallel to shore intersect with the rip current heading out to sea. Course Hero is not sponsored or endorsed by any college or university. What type of coast would we find at the headland? b.are wider than summer beaches due to low energy waves during the winter. B) destructive interference. When will perfect destructive interference occur? A) gravity waves. An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have ________. If the bottom is very steep, the resulting waves will be plunging. The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area. the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point. Manganese nodules are these types of sediment: 4,500 meters (below that depth calcareous shells). -When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of-phase interfere. 5.19). Other physical processes, such as wind, tides, and storms can also shape the features of a beach. the supply of new sand to replenish beaches is cut off Definition. 5.6). Diffraction occurs when waves pass through an opening or around a barrier and change direction (Fig. -Water moves linearly in the same direction as wave movement. A wave with a 2-meter wave height and a wavelength of 1000 meters. There are surf breaks all over the Pacific ocean basin. Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height. A tsunami may result from: Tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a: Shallow water wave T or F: Internal waves have never been directly observed False Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called: Which of the following materials do you expect to be found on the steepest beach? The graph shown is an example of a ________ tidal pattern. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ____. The time between two successive waves is called the: A standing wave can be caused by wave reflection. Which of the following currents contributes to the South Western United States being arid? B. spilling breaker HELP PLEASE! D) wave reflection. How does water affect the rate of chemical weathering? Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? These differences in energy can affect the shape of the coastline. Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. . What is the major mechanism by which ocean surface waves are generated? two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily. -Wave period is the inverse of wave height. Image courtesy of Jesse Allen and Robert Simmon from NOAA, using data from Land Atmosphere Near real-time Capability for EOS (LANCE). -When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. Evaporites (gypsum, halite) This process is called shoaling, and it causes the height of waves to increase (Fig. University of Hawaii, . b. e.volcanic activity resulting in the formation of new continental crust. 5.10. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. than other ocean surface currents because ___________. An eddy about 600 km off the coast of Australia in the southeastern Indian Ocean, which was made visible by a plankton bloom on December 30, 2013 that showed sea surface currents. The false-color map of sea surface temperatures shown below is an example of which of the following features? c.at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor. What does the term "in phase" refer to? -Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. Surging breakers (Fig. The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by two. b.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during summer. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. High tides and low tides occur at the same time every day for a geographic location. Which is technically the most correct with respect to tides? What type of substances dissolve most easily in water? What is the wavelength? Thermohaline circulation is driven by ___. A storm surge b. on the continental rise by a turbidity current (under water landslide). As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by _____________________. -Waves with longer periods have shorter wavelengths. 5.18. The angular distance of the Sun or the Moon above or below the Earth's equatorial plane is called the ________. Why do ships at sea tend not to notice tsunamis? Wave celerity of a deep water wave is equal to ____. The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. . 5.21). The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ________. Compared to western boundary currents, eastern boundary currents are ___. Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. a.at a density boundary within the ocean. d. Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during winter. -Mixed interference Warm currents flowing ____ on the ____ sides of continents produce warm, humid conditions. -The wavelength of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. This phenomenon concentrates wave energy on headlands and diffuses wave energy in bays. -When waves with large amplitudes interfere. In the southern atmosphere, the direction of Ekman transport is always. Wave steepness is defined as wave height divided by wavelength. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave amplitude a low reproduction rate for sharks, thus a low replacement rate high bycatch on longlines that are meant for other fish "shark finning" All. . 2020-2023 Quizplus LLC. For example, if a wave approaches a seawall at a 45 degree angle of incidence, the wave direction propagates away from the wall at a 45 degree angle of reflection (Fig. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. An estuary formed from a flooded glacial valley is called a: An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have: two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily. c. Earth rotates into and out of tidal bulges. The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period. It issues tsunami warnings to 25 Pacific rim nations . C) wave refraction. Make Print-Friendly. Use a ripple tank to observe various properties of propagating waves including interference, reflection, refraction, and diffraction. 28. -the lowest part of the wave, What is the wave height? Why do people generally install a groin along their beach-front property? -The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. When you're ready to print, just click this button: In addition, for many the ocean is a source of inspiration, recreation, rejuvenation, and discovery. -The depth of the wave base is two-thirds the wavelength of the waves. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction. Compared with a solar day, a lunar day is: d.very high high tides and very low low tides. Over time, erosion can cause cliff collapse therefore the coastline needs to be managed. An aerial view of the coastline in Kihei, Hawaii, shows reflection, refraction, and diffraction of water waves (Fig. How a wave breaks depends not only on the steepness of the bottom slope but also on whether the bottom slope is smooth or irregular, whether the bottom is composed of shifting sands or solid rock, and even whether the water on the bottom is calm or moving. This wave formed on a river by a flood current is called a/an ________. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave phase The vertical difference between consecutive high and low tides is called the ________. a. as evaporation increases, inflow decreases. d. are important feeding/resting points for migrating birds. Is Harlech Castle part of National Trust? Deep-water waves are: Definition. Surface ocean currents are driven primarily by ___ and modified by ____. Waves converge on headlands due to _____. The center of an open ocean tidal system is called a/an ________. -the highest part of the wave 59) Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? Of the following offshore ocean conditions, which one(s) would likely produce spilling breakers? a. wind duration b. the distance the wind blows over a continuous water surface c. wind speed d. wind turbulence e. All of the above are correct. -When two waves that have low amplitude interfere. -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. During winter months, monsoon winds over the Indian ocean ___. Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of . -Pure constructive interference, Which of the following are names for large ocean waves that can be created by constructive interference? In general, the speed, frequency, period, and energy of a wave are not affected by reflection. e.wave refraction. D) surf. Tsunami can be generated by geological activity that causes a sudden change in sea floor elevation, such as submarine fault motion, A. internal wave wave diffraction. What is rotational slumping A level geography? What is the best geologic evidence that the Mediterranean Sea has nearly, or completely dried up in the past? :) $12 tip if you get all the answers correct I need help with geography oceanography lab homework. Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water? Calcareous algae (A) A warning sign explains rip current dangers and how to avoid them. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave Why does the damming of rivers sometime contribute to coastal erosion? Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? siliceous ooze (SiO2, plankton shells). How long does muscle soreness take to go away? Most ocean waves form as a result of ____. -Wave amplitude remains the same as depth increases. The speed of a shallow water wave is proportional to: The time between two successive waves is called the: The speed of a deep water wave is proportional to: As a wave directly approaches the shoreline, it eventually breaks because it: b. is influenced by the Coriolis Effect. 5.22. This means that the bathymetry (the underwater elevation) of the ocean or sea bed also impacts the strength of waves. E) wave refraction. Most ocean waves form as a result of _____. Select only one answer. -Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Period. c.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during fall. Fig. Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces ________. shallow-water wave The movement of air across the ocean surface creates ____ waves. 5.19). 5.20. Wave steepness increases. Which of the following currents contributes to the South Western United States being humid? The altering rate of erosion of hard and soft rock is known as differential erosion. What is a drawback of seawalls? Surf is characterized by lines of foam formed by breaking waves and a distinctive, often rhythmic sound that many people find peaceful. Waves converge on headlands due to: a.constructive interference. 5.19. -A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves.